The image maker- SJ Van Zyl
We ask SJ about his personal experience from make up artist to photography and beyond.
How did it all start?
Since a very young age I’ve had a keen interest in visual storytelling, art and design. Sketching, painting and drawing the hours away. After school I studied graphic design at Tshwane University of Technology and obtained my B Tech Degree. Photography formed part of my studies there and I was introduced to film photography, developing film and the incredible world of Photoshop. I knew I was more interested in pursuing a career as a photographer once I finished my studies. What followed was a rollercoaster ride of careers in different areas of the creative spectrum. I got fired after a week of working at a small, independent graphic design studio (further cementing the idea that graphic design was not for me). Which was a blessing as I started working as a photographer and journalist at Caxton Publishers. I learnt about creating editorial content with small to non existing budgets and the art of portrait photography and storytelling. I left Caxton and joined the SABC as an on-air digital designer, responsible for creating the identities of various new digital channels. Whilst working there I started photographing make up portfolios for the students at Kohl Makeup Academy, a company launched and created by my friend Lindi Bester. I studied makeup, body painting, special effects and airbrush artistry part time and soon received the opportunity to manage and teach at the Cape Town Kohl Makeup Academy branch. So I packed my bags and moved to the Mother City, where I have been living ever since. I taught classes and managed the Cape Town branch for many years but eventually decided to return to working as a photographer full time. After leaving teaching at the makeup academy I accepted a position to teach marketing and audio visual applied design at Inscape in Cape Town and currently still do. I have more free time now to pursue my first passion: photography. I’ve also co- produced two seasons of Die Skatties for Via, a makeover show with a difference with producer and actor Diaan Lawrenson.
What is it about make up that stirs creativity in you?
The endless possibilities to tell stories. The transformative nature of it and the fluidity of the art form fascinates me. In makeup I found the perfect tool to compliment and enhance not only my photography but my retouching too. Makeup, photography and retouching all work together to form an image and if you understand the basic concepts and rules of those, your craft and skill can be elevated to its maximum potential.
Did this interest stem from a childhood memory?
I remember being mesmerised by painting and drawing from a very young age. I would always choose to paint, read or draw all by myself, I never really blended in with the other kids and never really cared much for sports or the things that was popular or expected of me. It’s a theme that followed me all the way through high school. Always looking and searching for the beautiful , the strange and the unique around me and in the world. I lived in my own little imaginary world where everything and anything was possible. I believe this is what shaped me as an artist, I never lost that sense of imagination as an adult, yes its been diluted a bit by life experiences but I kept a part of that young child through it all.
How did the photographic process start for you?
I loved drawing and painting but I became frustrated with how long it was taking to reach the level I aspired to. When I started taking photos and manipulating them on Photoshop I knew I found my creative process with which I could tell the stories I wanted to tell. I was especially interested in portraiture and found I had a knack for making people feel comfortable and creating a connection with them in the images I took. I’ve dabbled in a few different genres but my main focus is mostly portraiture, beauty and fashion.. My style has also changed a lot through the years and that’s what I love about photography and retouching. It’s ever evolving and changing and it keeps me on my toes as an artist and creative.
How do you feel about the current state of the industry?
It’s a confusing and strange time to be a creative freelancer. Magazines shutting down, the rise of influencer culture and social media algorithms, cancel culture and exposure as payment has certainly wrecked big parts of what used to make this industry so appealing and seductive. South Africa also doesn’t value its creatives or pay them as well as many other countries do which makes it hard to earn a living here. But I do believe in these times of great challenges we learn valuable lessons to hone our skills to be the best creatives we can be. We also have to adapt, change and evolve at neck break pace or face the risk of being left behind. And for every door that shuts we can build new doors to walk through as artist I believe.
How do you keep inspired?
At the moment I find myself looking back more and more at the masters of old for inspiration. I’m not sure if its because I am getting older but the aesthetics of the past masters appeals to me way more than what is currently being praised and produced. I adore the timeless and classic nature of their work. Their work was honest, challenging and focused, they created from a place of authenticity, not because algorithms. I long for those days where we were exposed to less but the quality and content was so much more potent and inspiring. I still get inspired by current trends, films, music and other pop culture influences but its less than before for sure. I think its every creative’s curse: to be born in a certain pool of magic and looking for it again for the rest of your life. I have to add that Dossier was always such a gem on the shelves for me, it was one of the few local magazines I bought and read religiously. And to be featured in it now is such a major bucket list tick for me, so thank you for the opportunity and inspiration you’ve given me through the years.
What are your favorite books, movies and brands?
Films: Black Swan, Fight Club, The Little Mermaid, Death Becomes Her, Requiem for a Dream, Blade Runner, Se7en, The Silence of the Lambs.
Books: I love photography coffee table books featuring the likes of Herb Ritts, Peter Lindbergh, Tim Walker, Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford, Ellen von Unwerth, Annie Leibovitz.
Brands: Mostly photography, lighting and software brands: Canon, Elinchrom, Adobe, Wacom, Godox.
Quote: "Whatever you vividly imagine, ardently desire, sincerely believe, and enthusiastically act upon... must inevitably come to pass! " Paul J. Meyer.
Credits in order of appearance in article:
Pic 1:
Model: Gisela Calitz
Makeup Artist: andrea van den Houten
Retoucher: Vitalii Fidyk
Eyewear: Avanglion, available at YDE
Black and white forest images:
Model: Zoe M from Fanjam Model Management and Palesa M from Boss Models JHB
Hair and Makeup: Lindi Bester
Clothing: Hollywood Costumes
Swimming Pool Image:
Model: Mia L from Fanjam Model Management
Makeup: Lindi Bester
Styling: Tegolin Markham
Eyewear: Avanglion, available at YDE
Black and white swimming pool image:
Model: Jordan V from Boss Models Cape Town
Makeup: Andrea van den Houten
Black and white eyewear image:
Model: Gisela Calitz
Makeup: Andrea van den Houten
Retouching: Vitalii Fidyk
70s inspired image:
Model : Hannah Flemming
Makeup: Andrea van den Houten
Hair: Charles Junior Louw
Eyewear: Avanglion, available at YDE
Styling: Tegolin Markham
Retouching: Vitalii Fidyk
Black and white image:
Model: Gisela Calitz
Makeup: Andrea van den Houten
Eyewear: Avanglion, available at YDE
Retouching: Vitalii Fidyk
2 models:
Models: Zoe M from Fanjam Model Management and Palesa M from Boss Moddels JHB
Hair and makeup: Lindi Bester
Drape image:
Model: Gisela Calitz
Makeup: SJ van Zyl
Single Model:
Model: Palesa M from Boss Models JHB
Makeup: Lindi Bester
Last 2 images:
Model: Mariska Pretorius
Makeup: Lindi Bester
Retouching: Vitalii Fidyk