A Passsage to India
Written By Lulu Townsend
It was a weird, wonderful and challenging trip travelling on my own, and I was ill for half of it. But the adventure was worth it and the hotels I stayed in were wonderful.
I am lucky that I managed to get an Indian visa in a very small window of opportunity back in November, I took a risk and booked my flight in September not knowing if I would be able to take it or not. E-visas weren't (and aren't yet) available to the UK so it was a day trip to London and hours in the waiting room. But I got it (and it was free) and my trip to India was becoming a reality. I headed to India, Rajasthan via Delhi. And yes, travel and tests were a hassle and yes, I wore a mask pretty much 24 hours a day (apart from when I was in my room) and yes it took a large part of the enjoyment away from my trip!
First (and last) stop was The Imperial in Delhi; there were no connecting flights on to Jaipur so an overnight stay was essential. Opened in the 1930s and a place where British and Indian dignitaries – Mountbattan, Nehru, Gandhi, Jinnah – rubbed shoulders, The Imperial Hotel in Delhi is a legendary and iconic heritage hotel, heralded by an avenue of stately palms leading to its entrance. The high-ceilinged bedrooms are spacious with huge beds and crisp cotton bed linen; the marble bathrooms are large with bath and shower and plenty of towels. There are no tea and coffee making facilities here, but they're not needed with exceptional 24-hour room service and each floor has its own team of housekeeping staff always on hand. The Afternoon Tea is sublime, and a leisurely affair and The Imperial Spa is the best in the city with a fantastic choice of western and Ayurvedic treatments on offer as well as a hairdresser and beauty salon. The food is fantastic and there’s a choice of award-winning restaurants including The Spice Route designed to reflect the journey of spices from the Malabar Coast in Kerala through Sri Lanka, Malaysia, and Indonesia to Thailand and Vietnam, with a menu created by Chef Veena Arora. The restaurant took seven years to build and is entirely hand-painted with vegetable and flower dyes by mural painters from a temple in Guruvayur in Kerala with a tradition dating back more than 3000 years.
Rates from £257 per night plus 18% tax
Heading on to Jaipur early the following morning, I had to arrive at the airport three hours before my domestic flight and even then, I only just made it on time.
A driver dressed in immaculate uniform and a pink turban was waiting for me at arrivals to take me to Rajmahal Palace, once home to the Royal family and still fit for a king. Given the growth of the sprawling city of Jaipur this oasis is no longer in the countryside but it’s still one of the quietest and loveliest places to stay in Jaipur. Each room and suite have a massive bed and is named after a former famous guest (e.g. Maharaja Suite); all are decorated in bold, contrasting colours including reds, pinks, oranges and greens. It's worth noting that none of the bedrooms have windows, though this really doesn't take away from the magical, regal experience. Afternoon Tea is served on the lawn or in the 51 Shades of Pink dining room and at night you dine under the stars with your own fire pit. The winter season is October to March and whilst it was warm, it wasn’t warm enough to swim or bask in the sunshine, but the temperature was perfect for exploring and shopping. Jaipur is a place where you need a car/driver; it is big, noisy and fairly chaotic! The Johari Bazaar is definitely worth a visit as it sells jewellery, textiles and cross the jewellery bazaar, Gopalji ka Rasta.
Rates from £280 plus 18% tax
I visited Bar Palladio, a hyped-up bar on Instagram - the interiors are lovely, but I would I would rate it as ‘ok’, service was very slow and there is a complacency about the place which didn’t appeal to me and drinks were overpriced. Hot Pink Jaipur - a lifestyle shop, was a disappointment and not a place I would rush to. Rambagh Palace is definitely worth a visit even if you aren’t staying there, it’s worth a drink or two and the food and service are great! If you can and if it’s warm enough dine under the stars on the terrace. This luxury hotel is one of the best places to stay in Jaipur. It is surrounded by 40 acres and was originally built in 1835 transitioning from the home of the queen’s favourite handmaiden to a royal guesthouse and hunting lodge, and later as the residence of the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II and his queen, Maharani Gayatri Devi. Today this Taj hotel has 78 stunning rooms and suites which were the chambers of the former Maharaja. The palace is magnificent with extravagantly decorated interiors and beautiful elaborate Mughal Gardens.
www.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj/rambagh-palace-jaipur/
Four nights in Jaipur was definitely enough and it was great to be escaping to a lakeside camp for a couple of days peace and quiet, albeit a 5-hour drive away…
If you’re staying at more than one RAAS hotel you only need to give your passport and payment details once ensuring a very quick check-in and each subsequent property. So, when I finally arrived at RAAS Chhatrasagar all I needed to do on arrival was sit and enjoy the view with a refreshing drink. This luxury camp is situated on the site of an old traditional pop-up camp and opened in November 2019 with 16 luxury tents all of which overlook the east side of the lake with private outdoor terraces. Lined with hand-embroidered fabrics featuring local fauna and birds, the tents are large and luxurious with en-suite marble bathrooms featuring modern free-standing baths and large walk-in showers. A paradise for nature-lovers, the camp has its own naturalists who will accompany you to explore the estate, local temples, village and farm. Wake up early and enjoy the sunrise from your verandah and finish the day with a sundowner around a blazing fire under a canopy of stars. It’s worth noting that the camp is one of the few that is open year-round, and the infinity pool is constantly heated to 29 degrees to ensure an enjoyable dip whatever the weather.
Rates from £270 plus 18% tax
Less than 48 hours later and it was time for another 5-hour drive to RAAS Jodhpur where ancient meets modern. In the heart of the old city, this haveli sits beneath the Fort enjoying breath-taking views. My suite was in the modern building overlooking the beautiful infinity pool and restaurant. Stylish and modern RAAS Jodhpur was a welcome oasis after a long, dusty and bumpy journey. The location couldn't be better; it's just a 5-minute walk from the clock tower and the various markets and bazaars — if you don't fancy walking then the hotel can organise a tuk tuk and a guide - ask for Ram, he speaks beautiful English and will take you to explore the Blue City and to experience it like a local. The 39 en-suite rooms and suites are all large, with bath, and walk-in shower and those in the modern building are shaded from the sun by the jaali shutters that fold back to reveal the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort. There are two restaurants, Darikhana is the rooftop al fresco restaurant where each dish is prepared with hand ground spices, specially sourced from a 200-year-old shop hidden in the lairs of Old Delhi. Then there’s Baradari in the haveli courtyard by the pool which offers a range of local and international dishes made from seasonal organic vegetables from the hotel's garden. The spa has an extensive menu including Ayurvedic treatments which I tried, but not sure I am a convert yet!
Rates from £200 plus 18% tax
I certainly saved the best for last. RAAS Devigarh is a majestic, magical, 18th-century palace near Udaipur sitting high up on the hill overlooking the local village just 20 minutes from Udaipur. As you arrive the palace looms above you whilst the birds twitter around and you're welcomed by the team of staff. Rose petals are scattered over you as you enter and so your journey begins at Devigarh, possibly the best and most alluring palace hotel in Udaipur, certainly the most romantic. Each suite is unique and modern, some feature hand-painted traditional Udaipur paintings, frescoes and murals. Marble is used in abundance throughout the hotel, especially in the large en-suite bathrooms with walk-in showers and large baths, some with stunning views. You don't need to spend a fortune here as the Garden Suites are great value for money and are in a great location near the pool and spa. Devigarh is a labyrinth, expect to get lost, and enjoy it and expect the unexpected; take time to wander around and find the mirrored room and stunning viewpoints with plenty of stone stairs leading to hidden corners. Make time to have a treatment in the spa which boasts India's only pink Himalayan salt sauna. The dining menu is extensive and organic and includes Indian, Thai, Italian and International dishes, but if there's anything particular you're after, speak to the chef, he can conjure up pretty much anything! This is a hideaway for love birds, honeymoons, anniversaries and celebrations and it's also a great place for solo travellers just to be and soak up the energy, views, peace and quiet.
Rates from £185 plus 18% tax
I finished my trip with a return flight to Delhi and another two nights at The Imperial, it felt like coming home; a cocooning experience at an iconic luxury hotel in the heart of the city. The Manager and his team of staff are truly exceptional.
Travel Tips: Do ask your hotel to sort out a pay as you go sim card for the duration of your trip, it will save you a fortune in roaming charges and only costs around £5 for a month of limitless use. Some hotels have their own filtered water in the rooms, but I would always recommend asking for bottled water. The best books to take with you are Love Jaipur and Rajasthan and Love Delhi by Fiona Caulfield. During a stay in Delhi shoppers should head to Khan Market and visit Anokhi, Good Earth, Fab India and Amrapali as well as a visit to Shaw Brothers for some wonderful Pashminas. Do change some cash at the airport on your arrival as you’ll need cash in the markets and you’re limited to changing £250 at Heathrow.
