FASHION WEEK – BACK-2-BACK: PART ONE
South African Fashion Week SS25 Collections
By Leon Haasbroek
Photographs by: Pierre Van Vuuren
It’s been a full two weeks since I’ve taken a moment to jot down thoughts, reflect on industry highlights, or capture something exciting from our ever-evolving creative world, locally and globally. The reason for the pause? I finally got to walk in the shoes of those who traverse the global fashion circuit back-to-back. And let me tell you - it takes everything out of you.
Beyond simply attending the shows, I had the honour of serving my industry in a more hands-on capacity - curating seats for the right guests, the ones who drive conversation around the event, its partners, and most importantly, the collections themselves. I’ve done this for SA Fashion Week for many seasons, but this time there was added pressure. Dossier, in partnership with EXC Studios, launched a proof of concept for DossierTV: a bold new media extension that brings the Magazine’s vision to life in motion. It’s a venture that deepens both the brand and my personal investment in storytelling, and it added a whole new layer to this season.
I attended the first two nights of the South African Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 collections, kicking off with the much-anticipated New Talent Search. It was a cascade of promising, emerging design - young creativity at its most delightful. But one name rose above the rest: Ngano Design Africa by Tanaka Magirazi Vengere, a relatively new voice in fashion, the brand was awarded the top honour of the evening. His work: cohesive, wearable, and undeniably commercial – yet his win left many in the audience a little confused. Now, I’m not often that guy who calls out the room, but let’s be real: there was collective confusion when the winner was announced - including my own. But it’s moments like these that remind me of our tendency to judge from our comfortable seats, as if we’re each divinely appointed to hand out verdicts. Let's take a breath. The judging panel faced a mammoth task: selecting a designer not just to win a title, but to represent an entire market and inspire a generation. To Tanaka - congratulations. We’re watching, we’re rooting, and we can’t wait to see what you build with the wind of the industry now behind you.
Next on the lineup was Gert-Johan Coetzee. I’ll admit, I walked in with a clouded lens - some unresolved irritation from a seating issue earlier that week (which, to be fair, was eventually resolved). But I wasn’t exactly excited. It’s difficult not to take it personally when a designer can, with a single instruction, rearrange the seats you’ve spent hours carefully curating - especially when it affects your own guests. But fashion has a way of humbling even the most agitated spirits. From the moment we arrived at our seats and were handed brightly coloured headphones, I felt the mood begin to shift. I had an instant flashback to Secret Sunrise - that kind of whimsical, immersive energy. It was different. Seated beside fellow industry insiders, unable to whisper or discuss looks in real time, the experience became something far more intimate. The headphones created a world of their own - a fusion of sound, story, and silhouette.
What unfolded on the runway was nothing short of intergalactic. An alien race of impeccably dressed models graced the stage - layered textures and silhouettes that shouldn’t work in theory, but somehow, in Gert’s hands, did. Colour combinations shimmered like reptilian skin; bare-chested male models contrasted sharply against the drama of extravagant twins walking in tandem. The pageantry, the detail, the ambition - undeniable.
Though I entered the show with bias, I left with deep respect. Gert reminded me of why we’re here. That despite personal grievances, egos, or moments of misalignment, this work - this spectacle - is about pushing the industry forward. It's about expanding what’s possible and laying down something meaningful for the generations that will walk these runways next.
Day two was a celebration of ready-to-wear done right. From the sharply tailored, high-end precision of Tiger Blue to the dreamlike elegance of Rubicon by Hangwani Nengovhela, the evening delivered a masterclass in craftsmanship. Tiger Blue’s range was confident and considered - elevated essentials for the modern wardrobe. But it was Rubicon that completely stole my heart. In fact, I’ll go as far as saying it was my favourite collection of the entire season.
Although I wasn’t physically present on day three, I experienced the shows through post-show visuals and even in still imagery, Rubicon’s collection radiated power, grace, and pure emotion. From the delicate hand-stitched ribbon florals to the rich, cobalt blue print that moved like poetry on fabric, every look had me gasping. Watching the runway recap, I found myself genuinely emotional. Not for any personal reason - but simply because the collection was that moving. That intentional. That beautiful.
What Hangwani and her team presented was more than just a seasonal range - it was a love letter to craftsmanship, to womanhood, and to storytelling through clothing. You could feel the time, the effort, the care. It was couture-level detail framed in ready-to-wear finesse. Rubicon didn’t just show a collection; they gave us an experience.
Although I couldn't attend Day Three of South African Fashion Week due to my commitments in Cape Town for Menswear Week preparations, I made it a point to immerse myself in the collections through visuals and reviews. Among the standout presentations, Sun Goddess, the dynamic duo of Vanya and Thando Mangaliso, delivered a collection that was nothing short of a vibrant homage to African heritage.
Their SS25 collection radiated with a rich tapestry of colours and patterns, reminiscent of tribal artistry, yet tailored with a contemporary finesse that speaks to modern luxury.Each ensemble exuded an air of opulence, with models embodying the elegance of affluent yacht owners gracing a polo match - an intersection of traditional motifs and high-end fashion sensibility.
What struck me most was the meticulous craftsmanship evident in every piece. The collection wasn't just a display of fashion; it was a narrative woven through fabric, celebrating Africa's regal past while envisioning its stylish future. Sun Goddess continues to set the bar for African luxury fashion, seamlessly blending cultural storytelling with contemporary design.
In closing, the South African Fashion Week team delivered nothing short of excellence - curating a platform that truly honours the brilliance of our top-tier designers and positions their work on a global stage. The venue, The Forum in Hyde Park, was a refreshing departure from the familiar “parking lot” runway setups of the past. It exuded sophistication and intention - an environment worthy of the calibre of talent on display. The sponsor activations were equally impressive - elegant, engaging, and thoughtfully integrated. Capturing content around them felt like something out of Milan or Paris - proof that world-class experiences are being crafted right here at home. Despite navigating a new venue and the inevitable behind-the-scenes challenges, SAFW rose to the occasion with style and grace.
I had the privilege of hosting a potential sponsor on Day Two, and they were visibly inspired - amazed, even by the sheer scale, quality, and untapped opportunity within our fashion industry. The time is now. South Africa’s fashion landscape is not just growing - it’s claiming its rightful place as a bold, inclusive, and creatively rich industry, driven by the authentic voices of our culture and community.
