beyond Expectation
beyond BACK STORY:
The triumvirate (trifecta) behind the world renowned fyn restaurant, long-standing partners Peter Tempelhoff’s, Service & Beverage Director Jennifer Hugé and Head Chef Sebastian Stehr opened beyond in the midst of Covid in 2020. A bold move.
Where?
Situated on the beautiful farm at Buitenverwagting (translation: beyond expectation) on the east-facing slopes of the magnificent Constantiaberg, originally formed part of the Constantia Estate, which was founded by Simon van der Stel, the first Governor of the new Dutch colony at the tip of Africa. Steeped in history.
The farm dates back to 1773 and the changing of owners and all their quirks would make a good Netflix series. The farm now produces tonnes of grapes, while also being a lovely spot for the public to visit.
The beyond premise:
Peter Tempelhoff’s food philosophy is in the importance of the ingredients. At beyond, special attention has been paid to sourcing from local farmers. From rare-breed meats, and seasonal heirloom vegetables to artisanally crafted cheeses, this diversity serves to showcase the beauty of unique strains and flavours beyond mass production. When the restaurant was launched, Tempelhoff spent time with Dr Jan De Vynck, a professor at the African Centre of Coastal Paleoscience to learn about where and how to source plants and species to make up the menu at beyond.
Let’s get to the good part:
It was a busy Saturday at the Buitenverwagting Estate, preppy young students, in linens and cardigans draped over shoulders, gathered in groups on the lawn, enjoying a day of picnicking under age old trees.
No crowd for us, we were ushered into a tranquil and private space of beyond restaurant. The interior is in natural tones, my feeling was that the massive tableau of the window of the wine lands was to be the focal point. The window painting of the vines lined up until it meets the majestic Constantiaberg mountain range, our canvas.
There is an overwhelming sense of calm, the service is unrushed and one would not want to pass quickly, a leisurely pace is what beyond is about.
In my opinion, the team set off to create a world of wholesomeness. The servers are happy and full of wit while they translate the menu into words. While you know you are served of the best cuisine in the Cape, you are also left to feel like you deserve the treat. An art in itself.
Let’s talk about the wines
For the wine collectors, take note. Jennifer Hugé put together some surprises for the wine pairings.
Vuurberg White 2020
Donovan Rall makes the Vuurberg White, a blend of 58% Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Verdelho, Roussanne and Semillon. The nose presents with ripe yellow stone fruit, such as cling peach and apricot, spice and oak it smells and tasted both decadent and luxurious with a broad texture and creamy finish, but this is also wonderfully balanced with its vibrant acidity, making it a fabulous food wine.
Meifort 2021
Full bodied and complex red blend. Warm and inviting nose showing elegant plum, red cherry characters combined with spicy oak and tobacco characters.
Edelspatz Noble Late Harvest 2021
Being one of the best noble rot vintages in over a decade, the wine shows classic botrytis characteristics on the nose and complimented with honey suckle, dried peaches and marmalade. The wine has a perfect balance between sugar and acid, layered with bright fruit and orange blossom. Enjoy now or cellar for up to 30 years.
Rebel Rebel Syrah 2020
Dark fruits, anise, olive tapenade and black peppercorns, the palate is restrained, focused and seamless with polished freshness, fine texture and natural acidity.
What we ate
BBQ Wagyu brisket, dill pickled cucumbers, charred mushroom aioli
4 Saldanha Bay oysters, fermented lemon tabasco, mignonette
ARTISAN BREADS FOR TWO
Rustic style baguette, sweet corn & chive muffin, cultured butter with smoked onion
STARTERS
Handcrafted local Burrata, grilled organic zucchini, smoked heirloom tomatoes, roasted garlic & green olive tapenade, sweet pepper basil essence.
Burrata is having its moment on social media, and for good reason. Silky smooth. For us who chase a tomato with taste, something local supermarkets cannot deliver, this is a reason alone to eat at beyond. I think we should stand in solidarity and demand better tomatoes, but that is me.
Gamefish tataki, deep south foraged seaweed, fish bone dashi,lemon pelargonium oil.
MAINS
Pan seared Cape fish, bagna cauda ravioli,leek & chokka caponata, parsley veloute.
Ken Forrester’s free range & all natural wagyu beefwagyu tallow ‘chips’ & umami ketchup,
grilled baby gem & blue cheese with bacon bits and mushroom jus.
Read that again, the great Ken Forrester ‘s free range Wagu. no need to explain that further. What I must explain though, is what in these photos look like potato chips. it is not. It is dauphine potatoes chips. They should have a gourmet food truck and sell these only, it is beyond. People will queue for hours.
DESSERTS
Kalamansi brulee, coconut foam, mango granita, oat & coconut crunchie.
Dark chocolate cheesecake mousse, dark chocolate sponge, baobab-ginger gel, cocoa nib & sorghum ice-cream.
And our waiter insisted on a Coffee Martini and we could not let him down. Actually, we acquiesced as we did not want to leave, and did not want the conversation to end with our waiter. We spoke about everything, even about his dream to take an old van and his dog, and disappear for a few months. We don’t want to disappear, we want to appear at beyond again.
