FASHION WEEK – Back-2-Back: PART TWO

FASHION WEEK – Back-2-Back: PART TWO

 South African Menswear Week: The Week of Fashion AW25 Collections

BY Leon Haasbroek  

Photographs by: Neil Roberts & SDR Photo

With South African Fashion Week now elegantly wrapped - leaving us inspired by the power of storytelling, craftsmanship, and a renewed sense of industry potential - it was time to shift gears and head to the coast.

Just one week later, the fashion spotlight moved to Cape Town for South African Menswear Week AW25, where the Mother City’s crisp air and creative pulse set the tone for yet another showcase of sartorial brilliance. This wasn’t just another week of collections - it was a statement. A bold, confident celebration of menswear (and ladieswear) in all its forms, from the traditional to the avant-garde. And as the second half of this fashion marathon kicked off, it was clear: South African design is not slowing down - it’s evolving, diversifying, and demanding its place on the world stage.

The week began with a touch of sightseeing. What many may not know is that I’m currently preparing for a major life shift - after seventeen incredible years in Johannesburg, I’ve made the prayerful decision to relocate to Cape Town. It’s a move that will see not only my celebrity agency finding new roots, but also our beloved Dossier Magazine stepping into its next chapter in the Mother City.

But back to the moment - before the shows began, we explored some of Cape Town’s iconic stops, soaking in the views, the energy, and, most unexpectedly… the food. Now, I wouldn’t call myself a die-hard foodie, but this city might just convert me. Cape Town is bursting with flavour, flair, and the kind of culinary charm that lingers long after the meal is done. But I digress – “Leon, we’re here for the fashion!”

After settling into the rhythm of the city, we checked into our stunning sponsored accommodation - The Marriott Crystal Towers - graciously arranged by my dear friend André Machent. The space was immaculate, a true five-star experience that deserves its own spotlight (don’t worry, a full review with all the dreamy visuals will follow later this week).

It was a whirlwind from there. Within hours, I was off to join the SAMW FASHTalks, hosted by FP&M SETA the Fibre Processing & Manufacturing Sector Education and Training Authority. The panel’s focus? A designer’s first ten years in the business. And while the conversations were rich, some of the statistics shared were sobering. Only one in ten designers make it to their ten-year milestone.

This topic couldn’t have been more timely. As South African Menswear Week proudly celebrated a decade of showcasing the continent’s most exciting menswear talent, two standout designers were also marking ten years of their respective brands—MASA MARA and IMPRINT. I had the privilege of experiencing it all with a full Dossier content team by my side, led by our brilliant Head of Production, Che February, while SAMW graciously allocated 20 seats to Dossier Magazine to ensure we could host the right guests who drive the industry conversation forward. Proof that perseverance, vision, and an unshakable creative voice can indeed stand the test of time.

Kicking off the collections, I’ll say this upfront - it would be nearly impossible to highlight every look that graced the runway. If I did, we’d be here for hours (and honestly, I wouldn’t mind). But for the sake of time and clarity, this feature will focus on the standout moments and my personal favourites that truly captured the spirit of the WEEK OF FASHION. The runway opened with GRAD WEEK, proudly presented by the Cape Town Fashion Council. There’s something undeniably electric about watching new talent take their first steps into the spotlight. It was a celebration of fresh perspective, fearless creativity, and a bold look at the future of fashion. These young designers are not just students - they’re the leaders of our future selves, and judging by what I saw, the next chapter of South African fashion is in powerful hands.

Moving on to one of my absolute favourites from Day One: MASA MARA. And truthfully, this should come as no surprise. With ten years under its belt, the brand has mastered the art of consistency, vision, and cultural storytelling - delivering a collection that felt like a powerful reaffirmation of identity. What unfolded on the runway was tribal-couture chic at its finest. A vibrant, unapologetically African celebration of colour, texture, and silhouette - each look infused with a deep respect for tradition yet framed through a contemporary lens. Amza Niyonzima, the creative force behind the brand, presented a tightly curated, cohesive collection that reminded us all why MASA MARA remains a cornerstone of the South African fashion landscape.

 MASA MARA, below

Day Two. Now bear with me - I simply have to spotlight all four of the standout brands from this day’s collections. The craftsmanship, attention to detail, and distinct design language displayed on this day were nothing short of extraordinary. These collections didn’t just show garments - they showcased Cape Town’s design DNA, boldly setting it apart from the rest of the country.

First up on Day Two was FLUX Luxury Couture - a brand that brought an effortless swagger to the runway with a streetwear collection rooted in elevated craftsmanship. Cool, contemporary, and undeniably wearable, the range was a celebration of modern street style done right. From the moment the first look hit the runway, the energy shifted. The male models exuded confidence - relaxed yet commanding - as they moved in garments that balanced edge with elegance. You could see the quality from your seat: luxe finishes, sharp tailoring, and silhouettes that felt globally relevant yet proudly local.

FLUX

Next in the lineup was one of my personal favourites - Ezokhetho by Mpumi Dlhamini. And while I’ll admit there may be a hint of bias here, anyone who’s followed Mpumi’s work will understand why. Season after season, Ezokhetho delivers a vision of wearable African couture that’s bold, joyful, and deeply rooted in identity. This collection was no exception. Bursting with colour, charm, and Mpumi’s signature flair, it felt like a celebration of everything the brand stands for - upliftment, expression, and unapologetic individuality. Though Ezokhetho is currently marking six years (this August) in the game, its trajectory is undeniable. There’s no doubt it’s on a clear path to join the decade club as one of South Africa’s most beloved design houses.

EZOKHETHO

And then came the collection that had every Capetonian in my circle buzzing: King on Horses. Founded in Lagos and now based in Cape Town, this luxury fashion brand draws inspiration from Parisian design, blending it with African street culture to create unique, high-quality pieces. While some garments featured imagery that didn't resonate with me personally, the overall execution of the collection was impeccable. The editing was flawless, the mood was unapologetically high-end, and the models exuded confidence and comfort on the runway.

KING ON HORSE

Closing out this season’s collections with a resounding statement was IMPRINT, as the brand celebrated a remarkable ten-year milestone. The finale was nothing short of spectacular, embodying the brand's signature fusion of bold prints, tailored silhouettes, and a profound narrative. What many might not know is that Mzukisi Mbane (Mzu as I know him), the visionary behind Imprint, began his professional journey in the world of finance. He pursued a BCom in Accounting at the University of the Western Cape. However, his innate creativity and passion for fashion couldn't be contained. Self-taught and driven, Mzu transitioned from crunching numbers to crafting garments, launching his first collection while still employed in finance.

His latest collection was a testament to Imprint's evolution - a harmonious blend of Afro-futuristic aesthetics and contemporary design. Menswear featured impeccably tailored pants and tops, exuding confidence and sophistication. Womenswear was equally compelling, with bold, impactful pieces that showcased Mbane's ability to weave cultural narratives into modern silhouettes.

As Imprint celebrates a decade of innovation and storytelling, it's evident that Mzu's journey from finance to fashion was not just a career change - it was a calling. His commitment to celebrating African heritage through design continues to inspire and redefine the boundaries of fashion.

 IMPRINT

As the curtains closed on South African Menswear Week AW25, I found myself reflecting on the energy, creativity, and sheer talent that defined this season. This was only my second time attending SAMW, and I can now say - without hesitation - I’m officially hooked. The collections, the conversations, and the networking was nothing short of electrifying. With my upcoming move to Cape Town this June, this fashion week felt like more than just a road trip - it felt like a preview of a new beginning. As the Managing Editor of Dossier Magazine, the opportunity to embed myself even deeper into the creative pulse of the Mother City is an exciting venture I’m ready to pursue wholeheartedly. There’s something happening here - something fresh, raw, and full of promise - and I’m thrilled to be part of it.

Here’s to many more seasons of South African Menswear Week, to bold collections, brilliant designers, and the stories we’re yet to tell.