Milan Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2025

Drama, Decadence, and Disruptions: Milan Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2025

By Leon Haasbroek

Not even two weeks into the new year, the international fashion calendar is already in full swing. Opening the season was Pitti Uomo (14–17 January), seamlessly setting the stage for Milano Fashion Week and its highly anticipated Fall/Winter 2025/2026 Men’s Collections. While my focus didn’t linger too much on the Pitti Uomo showcases, last week we proudly spotlighted one of our own: Viviers Studio and their (he)ART OFFICIAL AW25 collection - a true standout.

This week, however, it’s all about the Men’s collections at Milano Fashion Week. Here at Dossier, we know just how much our readers appreciate a deep dive into menswear, so I’ve rounded up my top picks from eight collections spanning Friday, 17 January, to Sunday, 19 January. 

But before we even get to the runway, let’s address the elephant in the schedule: GUCCI, FENDI, and JW Anderson were noticeably absent this season. A quick dive revealed that GUCCI and FENDI have opted to showcase their men’s looks alongside their women’s collections next month. But I digress - let’s get into the magic of Milan.

Of the eight collections I immersed myself in over the weekend, Dolce & Gabbana easily took the top spot as my favourite. The designer duo’s theme, “Paparazzi,” set a cinematic tone with a throng of pretty boys wielding cameras, snapping shots from the back of the runway. True to D&G’s signature aesthetic, the collection exuded Italian opulence - an homage to aristocratic glamour. Faux fur and denim emerged as the evening’s hero textiles, though some fashion commentators unfairly reduced the collection to “fur coats and jeans.” In reality, the 70-piece lineup delivered an authentic Fall/Winter 2025 vibe, perfectly balancing drama with sophistication. And as if the collection wasn’t dazzling enough, our very own South African superstar, Lebo Malope, graced the D&G runway with his signature flair - an electrifying reminder of how refreshing it is to see our talents shine on global platforms.

D&G’s Collection

Philip Plein’s showcase came in a close second, set against the striking backdrop of The Plein Hotel. As expected, the collection was unapologetically Philip Plein - bold, edgy, and distinctly his own. Seamlessly blending his men’s and women’s looks, Plein presented a collection that’s fabrics and materials mimic his previous collections to underscore a sense of continuity. The lineup dazzled with skull motifs and crystal embellishments, applied to both formal and casual pieces, ensuring there was something for every style rebel.

Philip Plein’s Collection

‘Seductive’ served as the foundation of Giorgio Armani’s Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2025 collection this past weekend. The lineup dazzled with velvet three-piece suits, fine ribbed lurex knitwear, and sumptuous corduroy trousers that gently pooled over lug-sole shoes. This youthful collection was a testament to the 90-year-old maestro’s unparalleled ability to craft luxury menswear that resonates with the next generation, effortlessly drawing them into the Armani fold. Opening the show were color-blocked parkas in pink, purple, and olive - a bold and unexpected choice. While I wasn’t entirely sold on these thirteen looks, I couldn’t help but appreciate their deeper narrative potential. Perhaps they were a subtle commentary on the pressing global warming crisis we collectively face. If so, it was a thought-provoking touch to an otherwise impeccably seductive collection.

Georgio Armani Collection

Then came Prada, where Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection that felt like an intricate love affair between floral motifs, dangling charms, and pajama-inspired boy sweaters. Tailoring took an experimental turn, featuring patchworked brown leather and raw-cut faux fur accents across sweaters and overcoats. The collection channelled an American Western vibe but, dare I say, it fell a little flat for me. With all due respect to the genius of Prada, this lineup simply didn’t captivate me the way Dolce&Gabbana, Philip Plein, or even Emporio Armani did. While I’m featuring it here out of reverence for the brand, it lacked the allure I crave in a standout menswear collection.

 With the heavy hitters out of the way, let me turn my attention to four designers whose collections truly captivated me this season.

 Pierre-Louis Mascia’s ‘Bright Star’ collection was a visual feast, masterfully blending Victorian-era opulence with the rich artistry of the Italian Renaissance. It was a kaleidoscope of colors and prints, offering something for everyone while celebrating a sense of exuberant individuality.

PIERRE-LOUIS MASCIA Collections

PDF by Domenico Formichetti brought an unapologetic streetwear edge to the runway, channelling the bold essence of 90s hip-hop. Think baggy jerseys, oversized denim, and rugged Timberlands—a nostalgic yet elevated nod to urban culture, with a touch of irreverent glamour.

PDF Collection

Finally, Dhruv Kapoor delivered what I’d argue is his strongest collection to date. From the very first look to the finale, the 41-piece lineup was strikingly cohesive, weaving a compelling narrative with each ensemble. Below, I’ve highlighted a few of my personal favorites from this standout showcase.