The two best hotels in Sri Lanka: Aman heaven
WHY Sri Lanka? Any month is holiday time in Sri Lanka, with beaches and resorts to take your breath away. Whether it is surfing, site-seeing, yoga or spa- treatments, you will never forget your sojourn in this Pearl of
the Indian Ocean.
Let’s introduce you to two heavenly hotels, one will take you back in time, the other is a calm, modern beach resort- both respites from this world and it’s cares. The aman Group never advertises. They do not have to. Those that know, know. And once you stay at an Aman, you will not want to stay at another hotel group again. One can write long essays about this group, but to put it simply, it is the best in the world delivered in the most humble way.
THE AMANGALLA, ONCE KNOWN as the “New Oriental Hotel,” emits a luminance of its own. In beautifully preserved Colonial splendour it welcomes every guest or tired traveller that enters its wide open doors.
Sipping ice cold, freshly squeezed lemon drinks on the veranda, overlooking the street and passers-by, walking languidly under colourful umbrellas, there is no sense of urgency or haste to be perceived.
Imagine spending an afternoon reclining dreamily on one of the cushioned beds next to the pool, your butler ever ready with a cold facecloth as the heat beats down on you. Diving into the pool you decide to stay there forever, but afternoon tea is served and tempts you out of the water without another thought. You indulge in the hot Ceylon tea with freshly baked cake served with succulent strawberries and cream. You forget that soon it will be dinner time.
The chef serves an assortment of curries, prawns and chicken, with a choice of rice and condiments that need a table of its own; there are so many. An international wine list to make any connoisseur giddy with the choice, a light French Rosè – like Tavèl might be a good choice with the spice of the cuisine.
But, then there is dessert, once more the choice drives you dilly.
The bedroom turns you into a ‘twenties’ flapper. The music that plays on the blue tooth player takes you back to another era and as you lift a pomegranate to your mouth before lowering yourself into the free-standing foamy bathtub, you inadvertently dance a few steps of the Charleston.
“Throughout its history the hotel seems to flit in and out of the peripheral vision like that “ghost ship of my ancestors” evoked so hauntingly by the Dutch Burgher-descended Sri Lankan poet, Jean Arasanayagam.”
And then morning wakes you softly, breakfast beckons before you spend a few hours indulging in Amangalla’s, ‘The Bath.’ After a few minutes in the sauna, a deep hot, sesame oil body massage, followed by the same oil poured on your head Ayurvedic style, a grainy scrub under the shower, naturally followed by hot tea and scones?Of course!
Walking on the ramparts at sunset you experience the locals relaxing.
Young lovers hide behind umbrellas, the only privacy they have for getting to know each other - alone. On another level a young man is doing yoga while another is showing off his new motorcycle to appreciative friends. Fathers fly colourful kites with their children while older boys play ... what else! Cricket! In the distance you see the Church Steeple and the Mosque side by side, happily sharing the same street.
Walking through the old town, names like Nooitgedacht and Welgelegen jump out at you unexpectedly. The Dutch influence. The Light- house beckons, from there the view of the ocean, licking innocently the rocks below. Lace-makers sell their artistry for a pittance, and the gem-stores tempt you with its glistening stones. A feeling of wellbeing surrounds you, serenity stirs your senses and you consider moving here forever. For a minute you feel you are Ibn Batouta or Marco Polo, for you alone have discovered this town called ‘Galle.’
SITUATED AMIDST A COCONUT GROVE FRONTING a crescent shaped beach, this serene resort is everything its sister Amangalla is not.
You enter a high-ceilinged pavilion and become aware of open spaces all around you. The architecture is simplicity itself, minimalist and clean lines, shapes reflected in the pools.
Deep lounging couches for sipping cocktails before meals, a library you can spend hours in browsing books or surfing the internet. The service is quiet and awaits but a look in their direction for some saronged, smiling person to attend to your every need.
Each pool suite has its own splash pool, a writing desk, day bed, twin vanities and a loo with an incredible view.
For the sybarite, Amanwella offers a coconut foot treatment to make you drown in guilt at so much pleasure.
The chef offers a fusion of delectable dishes, fresh fish and curries, with desserts that beg more than just a taste.
A rich tradition of arts and crafts can be found in the Gallery Shop, or if you are ready to explore, an early morning or evening stroll along the village paths that wind through the jungle, provide an insight into daily village life of Wella Wathura.
Only 35 minutes south of Tangalle, Mulgirigala is a monastic site that rises 210 metres out of the surrounding forest. Located 75 minutes east of Tangalle, the Bundala National Park for bird-watchers, as well as occasional elephants and crocodiles can be found here.
EDITOR’S NOTE: I visited Sri Lanka with my late beloved mom, who wrote this piece, and when we set foot in Galle, we never wanted to leave. We fantasised about how we could pack up and go live in this fort town, and never leave. We tried to hatch a plan, but alas life took another turn. It is as if you are suspended in another by gone, simpler time. Friendly, kind people. I have never felt more at home in a place. I have not been back due to Covid of course, but I hope Galle never changes. And I pray I can return one day.
Photos: Mia Ziervogel
Words: Gretchen Wilsenach
Title design: Johan de Lange
Below videos The Luxury Travel Expert
https://www.aman.com/resorts/amanwella
https://www.aman.com/resorts/amangalla
