The Monterey Returns: Louis Vuitton Revives Its 1988 Cult Classic
Louis Vuitton has reissued one of horology's most divisive designs—the pebble-shaped watch that became an underground obsession
In 1988, Louis Vuitton did something audacious: they hired Italian architect Gae Aulenti—fresh off converting a train station into the Musée d'Orsay—to design their first-ever wristwatches. The result was the LV I and LV II, watches so unconventional they earned a nickname through mispronunciation. American collectors kept asking for "the Monterey" (their attempt at saying montre, French for watch), and the name stuck.
Now, after nearly four decades as a collector's cult piece, the Monterey is back. Limited to 188 pieces, the new version stays faithful to Aulenti's radical vision while upgrading everything underneath.
What Made the Original Radical
The 1988 LV I broke rules. At 40mm, it came in a lug-free pebble shape—no traditional lugs attaching the strap to the case. The crown sat at 12 o'clock like a pocket watch. It had a railway track dial, GMT function, and world time complications, all channeling Louis Vuitton's travel heritage.
The smaller LV II (37mm) went further, using scratch-resistant ceramic in black or green—innovative for the era—with date, time, and an alarm function.
Both were powered by quartz movements, the technology of choice in the late '80s. But it was the design that polarized: either you got it or you didn't. Those who got it became obsessed.
The Cult Status
Fast forward to 2025, and those original Montereys are appearing on the wrists of tastemakers. Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton's artistic director for womenswear, styled LV II watches from 1988 with pieces from the Fall-Winter 2025 runway. The vintage market has taken notice.
"Collectors are drawn to the striking designs," notes the maison. The pebble shape, the 12 o'clock crown, the graphic dials—these weren't safe choices in 1988, which is precisely why they resonate now.
The 2025 Reinterpretation
The new Monterey measures 39mm in yellow gold—a middle ground between the original LV I and LV II. The most significant change: an in-house LFTMA01.02 automatic movement replaces the quartz caliber.
Matthieu Hegi, artistic director at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, explains their approach: "Reinterpreting a creation means respecting its design and spirit. We maintain the same graphic codes, but strive for a more modern and elevated feel."
The dial is where traditional watchmaking meets modern execution. Made using Grand Feu enamel—a technique requiring approximately 20 hours of work—the white dial is fired at temperatures between 800-900°C. White is one of the most challenging enamel colors to perfect, requiring five layers of buildup with firings between each application.
The finishing process involves 10 separate firings at 720°C to achieve the glossy, opaline effect. Then comes the stamping: blue, red, and black enamel powder is applied in eight separate applications per color (four at 460°C, four at 600°C) to create the dial's signature twin hour and minute scales.
The hands are syringe-style in red lacquer with a blued steel seconds hand—edgy and graphic, recalling the original design codes.
The Case and Movement
La Fabrique des Boîtiers Louis Vuitton crafts and polishes the case entirely in-house. The pebble shape remains true to Aulenti's vision, with the crown at 12 o'clock featuring hand-sculpted Clous de Paris texture for improved grip.
Aulenti's ingenious quick-release strap system returns, with "1 of 188" engraved on the caseback—visible only to the wearer when the strap is removed.
Inside, the LFTMA01.02 movement features circular-grained main plates, sandblasted bridges, and an 18K rose gold rotor with V-notches echoing the LV monogram. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a 45-hour power reserve. Hidden beneath the barrel sits the poinçon LFT, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton's seal of excellence.
The Verdict
The Monterey isn't trying to please everyone—it didn't in 1988, and it won't now. The pebble case, the off-center proportions, the bold dial graphics: these are design choices with conviction.
What's changed is the execution. Where the original used quartz and focused on functions, the 2025 version invests in traditional craftsmanship—Grand Feu enamel, in-house movements, hand-finished components. It's the same radical design, now built with haute horlogerie standards.
"This watch represents a symbiosis between the old and present," says Hegi. "We retained the polished 'pebble' spirit, the unique leather attachment, and the iconic crown at twelve o'clock, all hallmarks of the 1988 LV I and LV II."
At 188 pieces, the new Monterey isn't chasing volume. It's acknowledging what the original became: a cult piece for those who appreciate design that doesn't compromise. The kind of watch that takes 37 years to go from divisive to desirable—and now comes back on its own uncompromising terms.
