Icon: Lucilla Booyzen
Dossier ICONS: Lucilla Booyzen – A Visionary Legacy Shaping the Future of South African Fashion
Our Managing Editor, Leon Haasbroek, and Creative Director, Johan Venter, had the privilege of sitting down with South African fashion icon Lucilla Booyzen at the Berman Gallery in Rosebank. Between snapping a few shots, they discussed her remarkable journey as one of the most influential trailblazers in South Africa's fashion landscape.
Lucilla Booyzen’s journey through the fashion industry is one rooted in passion, purpose, and a deep understanding of South Africa’s rich cultural heritage. Growing up on a farm outside Pretoria, her early years were shaped by an environment where "chic and elegance were lifestyle fundamentals." This upbringing instilled an innate sense of style and an appreciation for presentation, which would later define her career in the fashion world.
From teaching to modelling and eventually founding South African Fashion Week (SAFW), Booyzen's path has been anything but conventional. However, it is precisely this diverse background that has allowed her to shape the South African fashion landscape into what it is today.
Early Influences and the Transition to Fashion
Before she became a recognized in the world of fashion, Booyzen was a higher education teacher. It was during this time that she made the decision to pivot towards modelling, a career that would span five years and provide invaluable insight into the inner workings of the fashion industry. "This experience exposed me to the full value chain of fashion, from design to retail," she recalls.
Booyzen’s modelling career extended beyond just being in front of the camera - it was a journey of discovery. She was able to identify a critical gap in the local fashion ecosystem: the lack of a unified platform to support South African designers. Armed with these insights, she founded SAFW in 1997, a visionary move that has become her life’s work.
Founding South African Fashion Week
The idea for SAFW stemmed from Booyzen’s recognition of South Africa's vast creative potential, which was not being fully recognized on the global stage. "South African designers needed a unified platform to showcase their talent and grow their businesses," she explains. With the founding of SAFW, she sought to create a world-class, design-led fashion industry in South Africa.
The early years of SAFW were challenging. With limited financial backing and a market slow to embrace homegrown fashion, Booyzen’s resilience was tested. But her unwavering commitment to the country’s creative talent allowed SAFW to flourish. Today, SAFW stands as one of the most significant fashion events on the continent, with designers such as Gert-Johan Coetzee, Lukhanyo Mdingi, Mantsho, Rich Mnisi, Rubicon, Thebe Magugu and Viviers launching their careers on its runway.
Milestones and Growth of SAFW
Over the years, SAFW has grown exponentially, not just as a platform for designers but as a beacon for South African fashion on the global stage. The rise of designers like Nkhensani Manganyi, Mmusomaxwell, and Sindiso Khumalo, who began their careers at SAFW, speaks to the power of this platform in nurturing talent. Through strategic partnerships, particularly with brands like Woolworths SA, SAFW has been instrumental in amplifying the voices of local designers, opening doors to international exposure, and providing retail access.
In 2024, SAFW achieved a significant milestone with international media outlets like Vogue Italia and Vogue Business recognizing the growing influence of South African designers. The coverage was a testament to the strength and creativity that SAFW continues to foster within the industry.
Supporting Emerging Talent
Booyzen’s commitment to the next generation of designers is evident in initiatives like the 21 Steps to Retail program and the New Talent Search. Both have played a pivotal role in bridging the gap between academic fashion training and the practical demands of the industry. The 21 Steps to Retail program - launched in 2013, provided designers with hands-on experience in areas such as trend analysis, pattern making, and fabric selection, ensuring they are equipped to thrive in the competitive retail sector. Meanwhile, the New Talent Search has helped propel designers like David Tlale and Mmusomaxwell into the spotlight.
For Booyzen, these initiatives are essential to building a sustainable fashion ecosystem in South Africa. "We’re not just nurturing creativity; we’re teaching business skills, which are just as crucial for long-term success," she says.
Overcoming Challenges in South African Fashion
Despite the growth of the industry, Booyzen acknowledges that challenges remain. South African designers face issues such as a skills gap, limited access to expertise, and the need for greater global recognition. "Everything starts with education," Booyzen insists. "To truly compete with international brands, we need to ensure that our designers have the tools and resources they need to succeed."
This focus on education and skill development is vital, as Booyzen envisions a future where South Africa’s fashion industry is not just manufacturing-driven but designer-led. "Our diversity is our strength," she adds, highlighting the unique position South Africa holds in the global fashion landscape. For Booyzen, the key to unlocking the full potential of South African fashion lies in supporting young designers, investing in education, and fostering a robust ecosystem for growth.
A Legacy of Growth and Innovation
Looking ahead, Booyzen’s goals for SAFW remain ambitious. "Growth, growth, growth," she says with conviction. Her legacy is one of transformation, where South African designers can thrive, not just locally but on the global stage. Through SAFW, Booyzen continues to build a platform that not only celebrates creativity but drives business success for the designers who participate. As she reflects on her remarkable career, it is clear that her work has made an indelible mark on South Africa’s fashion industry, and her passion for elevating local talent shows no signs of waning.
For Booyzen, the future is bright, and she believes the success of South African fashion is inevitable. “It’s about creating a sustainable success story,” she concludes, “one designer at a time.”
What's Next?
With a growing international presence and a focus on fostering new talent, Booyzen remains committed to evolving SAFW and South Africa’s fashion scene. As she continues to shape the future of the industry, one thing is certain: her influence will be felt for years to come.
