The Mount Nelson Hotel keeps it's secrets

A few years ago I was sitting in the lounge of the Mount Nelson on a Winter’s night. I was born an eavesdropper, something I learnt as a child. We were taught to be seen and not heard, so my generation was raised as eavesdroppers. And it really helped when traveling and chatting to my travel companions in Afrikaans, so we could eavesdrop all over the world. My most disappointing eavesdropping experience was in the 80’s when my friend and I sat next to one of our favourite bands members of Spandau Ballet. It was in the Sandton Sun. I was so deflated, they basically just gossiped the whole time. 16 year old me thought they would be speaking about poetry and existentialism. I was crushed. I also sat next to Catherine Deneuve once at the Lutetia in Paris, that was far more up my ally, she sat perfectly still, merely nodding her head at the garçon who anticipated all her needs. I loved that. She never said a word. Is that still eavesdropping?

I loved Homeland the series, and when I was staying at The Mount Nelson, I was sitting next to the production crew and actors, trying my best to hear what plot twists they were coming up with. I could not hear a thing.

If only the Mount Nelson’s walls could tell it’s eavesdropping stories. But it keeps it’s secrets.

John Lennon once stayed there under the name of MR Greenwood. Lennon himself spoke about it in a radio interview just before he died. His PA and sometime lover, May Pang, says Lennon phoned her from Cape Town and sent her two postcards from the hotel. He was said to have made his own bed, and was very neat. He also meditated in the garden.

Former President Bill Clinton wanted to stay at the Nellie when he visited Cape Town, but they weren’t able to comply with his secret service’s request to cut down the giant palms lining its driveway for the CIA to keep guard. Imagine the nerve!

Founded in 1743, it has welcomed the likes of Winston Churchill, Queen Elizabeth 11 (celebrating her 21st birthday at the hotel, it was said. An historian has now come forth to say it was not so. Who to believe?), Bobby Kennedy, and the Dalai Lama (who lectured to some 500 guests about the Four Noble Truths, while they all sat on the floor in the spectacular ball room. Marlène Dietrich visited a young Pieter Toerien here, while the author of Sherlock Holmes, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, outraged other guests by holding séances in his room.

Did you know that the historic, famously-pink Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel in Cape Town was handed over to a new owner in 2019, LVMH, a world leader in luxury brands and goods?

When the Mount Nelson opened as a hotel in 1899, it was the first Hotel to offer hot and cold water, it was applauded for being even better than hotels in London. 

In 1899 Winston Churchill was staying at the hotel, who described it as the most excellent and well appointed establishment to be thoroughly appreciated after a long sea voyage. 

This is interesting, in 1919 Cape Town was ravaged by a deadly influenza virus (sound familiar?) the hotel was a designated plague free zone for esteemed visitors.

In honour of the visit of The Prince of Wales in 1925, the imposing gate which is now the hotel signature, was built. There must be many stories of the British shenanigans there that we will never hear about.

Nelson Mandela welcomed the first World Economic Forum to be held on African soil to this establishment in 1994.

If Wes Anderson was to film another The Grand Hotel Budapest, the Mount Nelson would most definitely be the most interesting establishment for such a movie. 

Alas, we do not need to be famous, nor infamous to enjoy this South African treasure. The hotel now offers picnics in the garden for summer, and of course, everyone needs a high tea there once in their lives. Or many times. Or just martinis on the veranda and let your imagination go. In my minds eye I can still see the ladies and gents dressed elegantly as they descend the staircase for dinners.

The hotel has a new general manager, Tiago Sarmento. The Belmond Group has a vision for making travel legendary. And thus the Mount Nelson’s legend continues.

The only question now is, the famous black cat that sits so elegantly all over the hotel foyer, or wherever he damn well pleases, might just be a reincarnated guest? I wonder.